Monday, May 17, 2010

Equilibrium

Getting to Angkor –definitely an interesting adventure. Our flight departed from Phuket (about 2 hours south of Bang Niang) at 6:55am on Thursday. Therefore, we took a bus Wednesday evening to Phuket to stay with my friends there. However, finding any kind of transportation from my friend’s house to the airport (about a 45 minute drive) at 4:30 in the morning definitely proved to be a challenge. We left the house at 4:30 and walked through a neighborhood for about a half an hour before arriving at the main road (Soi Palai). However, I feel it is very important to note that most families have at least one dog, if not several and they are more comparable to watch dogs rather than cute little puppies. So picture this, two farangs walking around a small Thai neighborhood with two backpacks, and then recall the scene from Disney’s 101 Dalmatians where all the dogs were barking and howling to send a message from one side of the city the other. As we walked, all of the dogs growled and barked and howled so I’m pretty sure the entire neighborhood knew we were coming. Also, none of these dogs were by any means cute. Their fur, eyes and teeth were all worthy of a role in a horror film. Eventually, we made our way to a 7/11 where we met a very nice Thai man who called us a taxi and bought us two iced coffees. I meet the most wonderful people!!!

Upon arriving in Bangkok, we set out to the Hualampong Train Station to board a pretty crowded and deathly hot train that took us four hours west to Aranya Prathet, the Thai border town. After a short Tuk-Tuk ride to Poiphet (The Cambodian border) we were finally able to go through immigration which was a joke to say the least. The only reason why following the rules was even necessary was to make sure I received a Thai exit stamp, as my 15 day Visa was expiring that day, so I would not have to pay an overstay fee. Other than that, you can basically just walk through mai pen rai. After another 2-3 hour taxi ride and half hour tuk-tuk ride, we finally arrived in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

My first impressions were that Cambodia is clearly a developing country, but maybe somewhere in between India and Thailand when it came to development. One aspect they have surely not ridden themselves of is the exploitation of children. Children as young as 5 or 6 would attempt to sell us guidebooks and souvenirs, but their scam was more remarkable than I had ever seen. They all spoke a script of flawless English that questioned where we were from, and they continued to recite unprecedented knowledge of our origins. When I answered that I was from the US, five of them began regurgitating some sort of song that listed all of our capitals and states. The saddest thing about it was that I knew this scam would work on many foreigners. As a matter of fact, Morten heard another girl express how much she wanted to buy something from a little girl because she was so cute. Just to reiterate- a five year old who had not had a bath for a few days to say the least and was clearly forced by the current social structure to learn how to earn money at such a precious age was considered cute. It was sick, not cute. We were informed that attending school in Cambodia is free, so we were more than wary of the children’s pout of needing money to pay for school. Anyways, after being called a bad person by a boy about eleven for not buying a book from him, I became more than ever convicted to fight the injustice inflicted on these children by the structure that exploits them. For future travelers to the area, do not give the children money or buy from them. Often, the children do not get to keep the money at all and must give it to a type of pimp who makes them go out and work for a meager exchange of some shelter and food. Other times, they are forced to work to earn money for their families. Either way, one should notice that these children are not starving, and often try to just make money so they can pay a certain amount to their family/pimp, and buy some candy with the rest. Kids are kids. They know they’re cute. Unfortunately they already know the evils in the world and how to make money by using their cuteness. What they need is to go to school, not a farang’s money as it is only temporary. Farnags are often looked at as huge ATM machines in some of these areas. All one needs is the right password and money will come out. Sometimes, a cute smile and a child saying you’re a bad person is the right password, while other times it is reciting random facts about your nation. Either way, remember you are being used as an ATM machine. It is tragic, but true. If you feel convicted enough or feel disgusted by the situation, involve yourself in it and do something about it. Do not take the easy way and give them five dollars so you feel okay sleeping at night. Instead, don’t sleep at night. Think about how you can be a part of the solution. Toss and turn until you have maybe thought of something good.

Aside from Siem Reap, the temples of Angkor Wat were epic and absolutely breathtaking. We began our excursion at 5:00am so we could see the sun rise behind Angkor. It was utterly fantastic. To imagine a great civilization living there was very stirring. One of the most devastating things we witnessed were the Buddhist images that had all been beheaded during the Khmer Rouge. The terror that had afflicted Cambodia in the 70s, 80s, and 90s is unimaginable, and the fact that they went as far as mutilating their own country’s great historic monuments solely to make an example of their ethnic cleansing technique is quite overwhelming. After visiting Angkor Wat, we made sure to see the famous Ta Prohm, which is the temple most known for its appearance in Laura Croft’s Tomb Raider. This temple pretty much exemplifies why I have always had a dream of living in a tree house. The temple has literally been engulfed by the jungle for the past 400 years. Trees and gigantic roots were growing in every which direction and while there, one really gains an appreci ation of the strength of nature. Roots had actually made their way through the walls and climbed up to the ceilings. One of the most famous trees actually grew on the roof of the temple. My jaw fell to the dirt, and I was left speechless.

After a full day of temples we visited the Siem Reap landmine museum which typically leaves its visitors very humbled by the strength of the Cambodian people, who are currently overcoming their past with enthusiasm and positivity despite the fact that their past does not cease to continue haunting them. The museum we went to was founded by Aki Ra, who is a professional de-miner. His life story, however, began at the polar opposite of where his life led him. He began as a child soldier, fighting for the Khmer Rouge, and then was recruited by the Vietnamese to fight against the Khmer Rouge. He laid the very mines that he is attempting to rid the country of today. It was very interesting to learn about the world’s positions of landmines at the museum. For instance, in 1997, a global landmine ban treaty was signed by over seventy countries to rid themselves of their stockpiles of landmines and to cease their manufacturing. The major countries who did not sign the treaty were not surprising: India (their reasoning for their tensions with Pakistan), Russia, China, and the USA (reason being that we need the landmines for the Northern border of South Korea). I really refuse to buy that excuse though, especially after seeing that the landmines used in Cambodia, which were used to maim the civilians, generally came from the United States and Russia. My guess is that even if there was a clause in the treaty giving the USA an exemption regarding Korea, we still would not have signed the treaty. Why? Let, be real, it’s the good old dollar. The people landmines kill are 85% civilians. It is not a weapon of war. It is a weapon of terror. They haunt Cambodia still as each year civilians, many of whom are children, lose a limb or their life due to the mines. But then, why would the States not set an example for the world and get rid of our stockpiles too? We don’t support terrorism, right? We don’t use them in our own country, so why should we keep them around? Unfortunately my guess is that we may sell them to other countries, such as those in Southeast Asia in the 70s or to Bolivia and Haiti in the 90s. We don’t support terrorism, which the use of landmines that destroy civilians is a prime example of, but for the right price, they seem to have fallen into the hands of guerilla warfare around the globe. Although my tone is hard and even relentless, I say this with a touch of optimism as I truly believe the States is finally in the right place to hopefully change some polices and be the role model it should be, especially regarding human rights and maybe even common sense regarding safety and security on an international level. So, with that said, signing the Global Ban on Landmines, in my opinion would be a great step in the right direction as far as common sense goes. Ironically, the 1997 Mine Ban Treaty was actually awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. Twelve years later, Barack Obama was awarded the same, but as of November, 2009 the Unites States has yet to sign the treaty or change its position regarding the treaty. Hopefully, the Peace Prize will not have been awarded in vain to either party, and the US will step up to the plate, but I do think with enough advocacy and pressure from the people, it can and will inevitably happen.

After tasting a bit of Cambodia, it was time to return to Bangkok, where we spent the day in Chinatown before returning to Bang Niang on Tuesday morning. While working on Friday, I had the privilege of going into the field with Aung Kyi, the Grassroots’ medic, to a Burmese community about a half an hour away. We set up our clinic on a porch outside of one of the wooden shacks, and upon our arrival, one might have thought we were Santa Clause and his elves bringing toys on Christmas. Grassroots goes to this community about twice a month, and they therefore know who we are, and are excited to see what kinds of medical tools and medicines we have with us. And soon as we set up, the community lined up and began filling out forms of information and descriptions of their symptoms. One by one they would sit with Aung Kyi, who would make the diagnoses and give them a prescription, which they would retrieve from the two other counselors. The most common ailments we saw were skin infections, either by an open wound or a rash of some kind and GI problems. The community was generally employed by working in the rubber plantations and factories, so there were many back injuries and wounds as well. This was the poorest community I had been to in Thailand, and it was definitely comparable, if not worse than some of the communities in India. This goes to show how discrimination towards the Burmese is set up in the social structure and in the policies towards migrants. More distinctively, I do not believe discrimination is necessarily felt in each Thai personally, but it exists in the system nonetheless. It extremely interesting to note that similar things occur in the States due to the way some systems are organized. Many people think that racism is solely personal as if some people are racist and others are not, and if you are not actively racist, then you are free from the responsibility of acknowledging that racism exists at all. Well, that is simply not the case because racism is not solely about personal feelings towards another race or ethnic group. Instead, it is the way our society is structured to favor one race or ethnic group over another in all aspects. It occurs in the States, and it is occurring in Thailand. The Burmese migrant workers are treated very similarly to migrant workers in the states, probably the most comparable to those coming from Latin America. However, many of the Burmese here, like those in this particular community, are treated much more like second class human beings rather than merely second class citizens. Fighting the stigma against them and ensuring their human rights are realized is the primary objective of Grassroots, and it was extremely exciting to be a part of it. The way racism manifests itself seems to be very similar in all parts of the world, but it was very eye-opening to see it take place in Southeast Asia. In the States, racism usually takes hold against the blacks, browns, and yellows (very politically incorrect, I’m aware, but that’s pretty much the point). Anyways, to the Caucasian population, generally all African Americans, Latin Americans and Asian Americans are lumped together in their perspective groups. Therefore, being an ignorant American regarding different cultures within each “race”, I was very surprised to witness the hostility toward the Burmese by the Thais, when in the States, Asian ethnicities have been stereotyped into one. Anyways, I suppose its two sides of the same coin here. There ought to be a balance as to people respecting other people’s ethnicities and recognizing their differences while maintaining a view of the larger picture, which is that everyone is a human being, and must have their human rights realized, and when it comes to human rights, it absolutely does not matter your color or ethnicity. Regardless of what it ought to be, human rights violations in Burma and in Thailand towards the migrants are completely unacceptable, and I hope to continue to learn more about the issues and advocate for them in the States. As pathetic as it is, I am sure many people in the States do not even know where Burma is, let alone, the horrors that are afflicted upon their people. My Visa run, alone, awoke me to the state of their country, and it was nothing close to appealing.

Now that I am wrapping up my three months abroad, I am have reached a point where I am ready to come home and have listed some things I am extremely excited about.

1.) Volunteering is great and the experience is worth more than I have ever earned, but let’s be real…I’m broke, time to go back to work!

2.) Fixed prices…yes, there are pros and cons, I can live with either one, but in the States, fixed prices are much more convenient.

3.) A good glass of wine…seriously though…Thai rum is great and all, but there’s nothing comparable to a nice glass (or bottle) of wine with dinner.

4.) I am now prepared and excited to actually apply everything I have learned in the States, and to learn even more! Observing health projects has been fabulous, but I really don’t know anything yet, so I am quite excited to start school so I can REALLY be useful in my next health project. In essence, I would love to actually know what I’m doing. Right now, I am just kind of making stuff up and using some common sense mixed with compassion, but I definitely have some room for hard knowledge.

5.) Lastly, of course I can’t forget to mention, I am so excited to see all of my family and friends who have supported me and really made this trip possible both financially and emotionally. I can’t wait to see everyone again!

However, with that said, and after my emotional going away celebration that Grassroots held for me last night, there are many aspects of Eastern culture that I will miss terrible and that have left a stamp on the way I think and feel and view the world.

1.) There is always room for more people! I am just fascinated by the warmth and the inviting attribute of both the Indian and Thai people. It does not matter if a bus is packed to the max with twenty people on the roof of the bus because there is always room for one more. I think the rule of thumb might be something like if there is no one on the driver’s lap, you can still fit.

2.) The relationship is much more important than the task. Because of this, business generally goes on at a snail like pace compared to the States, but things that are genuinely important are done with more sustained passion and usually a wider smile.

3.) Everything is so cheap! Granted, bargaining can become quite draining, and I am even a little excited for some fixed prices back at home, but the cheap prices are what makes a waitress/student capable of traveling.

4.) FOOD! Spicy food! Asian ketchup (sweet chili sauce), chilies, curries, and more chilies. Do not be surprised if upon my arrival home, I make even my salads with some kind of chili dressing. Along with food, I am an official member of the CPC, otherwise known as the Clean Plate Club (as Erin, the founder of Edge of Seven has dubbed it). What I love about the food here is that everyone always takes enough food and finishes it. There is no reason to take too much and then leave it to waste, and if there are ever any leftovers, they ALWAYS save it and eat it later. There is no such thing as wasting food, and it is extremely rude not to finish your meal. With that being said, I have to say the Western countries can definitely learn a lesson from this. In India, for example, you teach the children to always finish what they have because wasting is almost like an insult for those with less than you. With that said, one might think that people eat too much, yet traditionally, they are hardly gluttonous and have mastered the art of balancing their meals. Additionally, each office in India had its own cook so we had home cooking everyday, and in both India and Thailand once noon hits, everyone stops WHATEVER they are doing to enjoy lunch. Whatever they are doing, it is NEVER as important as their nourishment which is pretty fabulous. People work better and harder when they are happy and well-fed as well.

5.) The ambience of the east: the warmth, the fact that people take time for themselves and their relationships. (Often, it can be frustrating as I have wondered at times how people can possibly get anything done, but everything always does get done even to my dismay.) The openness to foreigners and my foreign ideas especially, the fact that I have people in India and Thailand that I can call my family members, are all things I will continue to treasure. I have been moved by the hospitality, the respect for nature, the respect for themselves in times of distress. I can only hope that I continue to hold myself to high expectations and act for the people I have learned to call my family and with continued gratitude.

I believe that in my first post, I mentioned my desire to seek balance while abroad and to observe how others maintain balance as individuals and as nations. Did I do that? Well, kind of. I have learned to recognize where things are unbalanced definitely, and I believe the world must sit in equilibrium. So, where there is more yin here in Asia, there is more yang in the Western World. However, as the world is globalizing, the shifting of yin and yang is very apparent. The western world is infiltrating the eastern world with things like 7/11 and Coca-Cola. Yet, Asia is being heard more and more in the western world too, especially as people are becoming more open to the wisdom of Asia especially regarding health. What I hope happens is that maybe the world might become more and more in equilibrium by the movement of balanced individuals and that that might trickle upwards towards entire countries sitting more in equilibrium. Take an example that might be seem a bit peculiar but rational thought led me to it anyways. In India, cows are sacred and are free to do as they please. They can roam the streets and are definitely one of the causes of chaos in Indian traffic, by American standards at least. In the States, we feed cattle hormones and steroids and treat them terribly so we can grow them faster so we can kill them faster so we can eat them faster. Now, there must be a place somewhere in the middle that manages to reach some sort of equilibrium. Maybe it is a place that does not cause car accidents, but also one that does not cause heart disease and cancer. Balance is something we need in our relationships, careers, businesses, and in our politics, but first and foremost in our lives personally and in our bodies, minds and spirits. Only when we can find balance as individuals can anything larger, especially our nation and our world begin to heal. However, I am again optimistic in that healing is inevitable at this point. The movement to heal ourselves and the world has already begun, and I am very confident in this movement’s capability to continue inspiring people to join it. Take care of yourself, and you can take care of someone else. Heal yourself, heal your family, and heal your business. Taking care and healing are just as, if not much more contagious than disease. Taking care of ourselves, our species, and of the earth are things we are biologically and spiritually designed to do. Therefore, once you make yourself an example, others will follow. I have learned how people accept that task of taking care of each other and succeed in fulfilling it in a few different places of the world. Yet, I have also seen how people have neglected that very task when greed and corruption take over. I am, at this point, more than excited to return home to apply what I have learned about healing into my medical education I am starting in the fall. Competition and driving for success are wonderful attributes as long as they are balanced by cooperation, patience, and love for fellow human beings, which are qualities we need more of in the medical community. So I suppose the timing is perfect for me to return home as I’m just about out of money (just about=huge understatement) and, I am definitely fully prepared to start school in the fall again with both a revamped motivation and perspective on medicine.

But tell me, this physician of whom you were just speaking, is he a moneymaker, or an earner of fees or a healer of the sick?
Plato, in the The Republic


Lastly, I would also like to send a special thanks out to Erin Guttenplan, the founder of Edge of Seven, who put this brilliant program together for me. Erin is an inspiration as she is putting into action what people only briefly imagine doing. It is one thing to be moved by social crises, but to take action takes strength and compassion beyond what most people fathom. She is currently in Nepal fulfilling a promise to rebuild a collapsed primary school after she was so moved by the kindness of the community and injustice of the situation. To read more about the project, donate or volunteer yourself, visit http://edgeofseven.wordpress.com/ or http://edgeofseven.org/.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Coincidence - I Think Not

The dreaded VISA run…maybe the biggest pain in the ass…ever (okay, not as bad as obtaining an Indian SIM card). I think the best word to describe the experience was sketchy. I was picked up in a sketchy minivan with sketchy foreigners from the UK (a few of which my assumptions lead me to believe are here to dabble in the sex tourism), arrived at a sketchy port which included sketchy “officials” grabbing my passport before letting me on a sketchy long-boat ferry. Once all of us were situated on the ferry, which was conducted by a boy no older than twelve, we headed to Andaman Club, Myanmar in order to officially step off Thai soil. Once we arrived, about ten sketchy local men met us and attempted to make a run to 7/11 and buy some whisky and/or sketchy pills for me. “Better price in Burma, you wait here, I get you whisky.” We waited in line for about twenty minutes outside the shack that functioned as an immigration office until they called our name one by one to receive our entrance and exit stamps. After they returned our passports and the locals came back with some whisky, we headed back on the boat only to wait in line once again for our entrance stamps back into Thailand. It was quite an experience, but I was able to hitch a ride down to Phuket which made it semi-worth the cost.

Down in Phuket, I picked up Morten from the airport, which was exciting to say the least, especially since his flight was the first one to remain scheduled out of Frankfurt to Bangkok since the volcano eruption. Fate, destiny, whatever, maybe just luck ;)- not a coincidence though.

Back at Grassroots, I have been given a couple new exciting projects since camp has ended. The first is tutoring English to a wonderfully gracious Burmese woman named Nannyla. She is working to improve her English in order to start studying Education Management at the University. The first day we basically just talked for most of our three hour session so I could assess her current level of speaking and understanding. One thing I have always had trouble with, which I think I have dramatically improved on, is speaking slowly, or at least at a pace people can understand. Actually, a few days ago, I was out with a couple Irish guys who even told me I spoke too quickly for them. I will admit though, I tend to talk quicker when I am either really excited about something (passionate or angry excited) or if I simply have had a beer or two. Anyways, often during the past two months, I have been really excited while speaking with so many warm people and I suppose my curiosity has gotten the better of my speaking speed. However, with that said, speaking slowly is something I definitely have improved upon…and is something I have had to improve upon in order for me to connect with anyone anyways. Tangent aside, talking with Nannyla has been exceptionally rewarding as it has given me some insight to the Burmese culture I have not yet had. We talked about everything from her childhood to why she left Myanmar to her wedding to her daughter to even corruption in government. She is tremendously intelligent. Although her English is definitely nothing advanced, it is really fun to define things by example and circumlocution. Finding ways to communicate effectively with anyone, even in English, can take massive amounts of patience, but even more so when someone is just learning. However, I have found it to be that much more rewarding as that patience has frequently allowed me to see the world through other sets of eyes. Long story short: If you have never taken the time to converse with foreigners, start now because well, patience is a virtue, and the connection is well worth any possible frustrations.

My other new project is using Mark’s project, a health survey among the Burmese migrant women, to develop curricula for education they are lacking, first and foremost HIV/AIDS. I could not have asked for a better project, and it is extremely exciting for the timing to work out so perfectly. I observed the curricula in India for the source population and bridge populations (FSWs and truck drivers) and then continued to write a proposal for HIV education for adolescents and rural women. Here they would like me to write the curricula for the source and bridge populations again which include Thai FSWs and the fishermen, and then curricula for adolescents and the general population. I will also be putting together some kind of radio talk show about HIV which will generally target the fishermen. I am hoping to get a day in the field to really assess the situation so I can really design some population specific teaching tools. For instance, crude body mapping might be a great tool for the fishermen, but not so much for the adolescents.

One of the most popular activities to take part in Thailand is a Thai cooking class. I am lucky enough to have adopted Nong as my Thai sister, and she held an awesome class for Morten and I. I am extremely excited to come back to the States and show off my new skills. Thai curries are out of this world!

Three times a week in Bang Niang, there is a market open right across my apartment building. It has everything from hand carved soaps to t-shirts to pig intestine on a stick. I am generally more a fan of the exotic fruits and banana pancakes, but there is pretty much something for everyone. There is also a local bar called Song’s bar. I have become pretty good friends with the Dutch bartender and his wife Wan. The other night they had a huge birthday party for Wan. No party in Thailand, by the way is complete, without a full-out Ladyboy Cabaret show. It was absolutely fantastic. There is nothing more enjoyable than watching the gorgeous and talented ladyboys hit on the typical foreigner here, which is generally a middle-aged European man with a red face and big gut often only here to make friends with the young Thai women. Anyways, there is simply no way to take your eyes off the ladyboys’ junk when it’s being waved around in one of the farong’s faces for show and tell. It is absolutely HYSTERICAL.

This post would not be complete without talking about the phenomenal weekend we just had. Nong invited us to go trekking with her friends up an 800 meter mountain in the rainforest with her Thai friends. The weekend started off Friday morning with a 2 and a half hour drive to a camp near Ranong. Nong has worked at the camp before, and they are now even turning it into an organic farm: very legit. Anyways, this camp was as legit as it gets. There was a bridge made of sticks that led us in the middle of the river where there was sleeping hut-literally it was only about three feet tall, so it was only made to rest. We lied there and took advantage of the wooden pillows that were carved precisely to massage our necks until we departed for our adventure. The first leg of our trek was a three hour walk through the jungle. It started off easy of course, with a nice wide path, but slowly we were guided into a narrow line hardly marked by past humans’ footsteps. The rainforest was full with vegetation and bamboo shoots that jut out every which direction that require ducking and climbing and eventually lead you to dance through it. As long as you become in tune with all of the obstacles that the environment is throwing at you, you can really get in the zone and dance through it to a very eccentric and sweaty rhythm. However, one of the pretty repulsive encounters we had were tiny little leeches of some sort that ate themselves through our shoes and socks and bit our feet. The good thing about them is that once they bite you, they became full and can’t eat for a few days, but they are still seriously disgusting to see. I don’t mind a bit of blood, or a bug bite for that matter…but the actual leech was freaky and just foul. I kept imagining that it would slug its way in my bloodstream and circulate there until it felt like crawling out. Anyways, after the tremendously rewarding hike, we arrived at a gorgeous waterfall where we stopped for a break. The people with us were absolutely outstanding locals. One of them, who we adopted as our Thai grandma had prepared us sticky rice sandwiches with soy satay. It was delicious. Basically, Grandma’s story is that in the past 14 years, she gave away all of her possessions, and she now lives alone and studies meditation and yoga. She is one of the strongest women I have ever met, physically, mentally and spiritually! She is probably in her mid fifties, but she is as fit as any twenty five year old. After the break, we continued our journey with some bamboo rafting, where my foot sunk into the mud, and we eventually landed in a small patch of coconut trees. The guides used their machetes to splice some open for us, and they were absolutely delightful! After another vigorous upward climb, we finally reached our destination at the campsite. We were greeted by a very friendly staff who prepared one of the best meals I have ever had. (Grandma, by the way is also a vegetarian, and made sure everything was veg friendly- very legit.) We had some of the most exotic vegetables and leaves I have ever had including banana flowers. Afterwards, we headed to the campfire, where we all sung Thai camp songs and gave each other foot massages with Tiger Balm before passing out in our tents.

The next day, we awoke with the sunrise peeking up through the mountains. I then had the pleasure of learning some yoga with Grandma. She didn’t realize I had a tiny bit of experience, and I think she was a little impressed a westerner even knows what yoga is. It was pretty exciting. After our yoga lesson and a breakfast of spicy rice porridge we headed back out on our journey. Our mission was to climb an 800 meter mountain so thick with rainforest; you could hardly see three people in front of you. On the way, we also saw a huge iguana lying on a tree. It was probably around three feet long. I cannot possibly describe how powerful it felt to complete the trek. It was demanding and exhausting, but after two and a half hours we reached the top and the view moved me to tears. We could see the Andaman Sea and the mountain range for ages. It was absolutely gorgeous. The best part was watching the sunset. The colors went from an intense orange to a soft lavender and finally to a cool indigo against the fog. It was just stunning, and it felt close enough to touch. After indulging in the sunset, we pitched a tarp, cracked open the Thai whisky, bundled up, lied like sardines and fell asleep under the stars (although it was a bit foggy). That night while I was sleeping, I definitely saw an anteater about one meter away from me. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a picture, but it was probably a good thing for the anteater that I saw it at 4am because if I had told one of the guides, they would have slaughtered it and taken it to the market. Apparently, anteater meat is quite the delicate snack in Thailand and goes for about 3000 baht per kilo, which is about 100$. After waking up the next morning around 5:30 to watch the sunrise, we headed back down the mountain and headed home. Overall, I would have to say it one of the most vibrant experiences of my life.

Yesterday, during my lunch break from the office, Morten and I decided as a joke to check out a restaurant calle Sabai-Dii (I believe that means very delicious). Anyways, below Sabai-Dii, the description of the restaurant said Deutsch, Vegetarisch, Thai Kueche (German, Vegetarian and Thai Kitchen). Obviously, we had to check it out. We definitely thought it was going to be a very cheesy tourist place, but we couldn’t have been more wrong. The couple who owned the place was a vegetarian German couple who ran an alternative medicine clinic as well. The man actually practiced sound therapy which might be the craziest thing I have ever heard. Apparently, you lay down and after 80 minutes of him playing gongs and metal bowls, people have actually had out of body experiences. Anyways, we were the only customers so we were able to get a little demonstration, which was pretty crazy. Everything is pretty much based on Leonardo DeVinci’s energy field diagram and the Chakras. After the demo, we really could feel the energy field. Anyways, he often treats people for back pain, headaches and other common ailments, but it is also used as a way to simply fall into deep relaxation. I thought it looked legit. Anyways, this couple is just outstanding and they did in fact make awesome vegetarian Thai food. They are very much into nutrition for the human body as well as for the earth. The man also makes homemade coconut ice cream, which by the way is made with coconut milk instead of cow’s milk, as well as chunks of the actual coconut-delicious. He then sells it at the market and gives all of his profits to the Beluga school for Thai orphans from the Tsunami. The school also operates as an organic farm, so the children are all learning how to farm themselves and eat healthy. Additionally, the place is used as a type of eco-tourism, and all of the profits made by the tourists go directly to the school. Overall, it’s pretty funny how heading to this restaurant started off as a joke, and turned out to be so much more than that….coincidence…I think not.

So tonight, we are heading to Phuket to catch our flight tomorrow morning for Bangkok. We are heading to Siem Reap, Cambodia for the weekend to see the epic Angkor Wat. (It’s where Tomb Raider was filmed…Wikipedia it).